Nativity scenes galoreI am staying at my sister’s mother-in-law’s apartment in Caracas during my stay. She lives in a 3 bedroom apartment in the upper middle class neighborhood Santa Rosa de Lima, and I absolutely love this location. They are central to everything my family needs access to, and it is SO EASY to get on the highway. I can’t stand how much I love this apartment.
It is Christmas time, and I could not help but notice that every single table was completely covered in all sorts of different nativity scenes. It took me a while to notice because the knick-knacks on the table were just a blur, until a single unique nativity scene happened to catch my eye. The next day, another unique piece caught my eye. By the third day, I had to stop looking at the tree and focus on the forest. That’s when I realized that EVERY SINGLE knick-knack on the table was a nativity scene!
I asked her how many she had, and she said she counted them every single year as she put them out. The number for this year was 160 (she made sure to point out this included the magnets on the fridge and external door hanging piece).
I must say that I have not decorated for Christmas this year in my own apartment, so perhaps this is Jesus’s way to remind me that He WAS born and that it IS His birthday after all. Can’t forget that here.
Merry Christmas everyone!
ina
Cute magnetStoneWooden StonehengeAlien world scenelarge, centerpieceClay, big noses
I love it when my country makes headlines. Unfortunately they have all pretty much been for negative things over the past 10 years, except when it comes to Miss Universe pageants, but I digress.
This sign was posted at the American check-in counters at the airport this morning.
Warning
Man, it’s great to start the morning with a full dosage of crazy.
Sorry this one took a little while to come through… I have been in training all this week and never got a chance to tell you about the end of my trip!
So I stayed behind on Friday while everybody else took off for home. I woke up early to have breakfast with a coworker, and then came back to bed to catch up on some sleep. By noon I had gotten my sleepy butt out of bed and out the door to explore the town of Kristiansand.
The hotel was located right in the center of the action, so I just had to step out and start walking.
Kristiansand
It was REALLY intimidating to walk around and go into stores where people are speaking a language you don’t understand. It was particularly embarrassing to stop at every clothes rack and pull out my cellphone to calculate the currency conversion. You have no idea how long it took me to finally figure out that I had to divide NOKs by 6 to get USDs. The next step was figuring out how to do div by 6 math in my head quickly! Turns out I couldn’t do it, so I just remembered that 100 NOK were 16 USD, so I just used 16 as my point of reference.
At first I couldn’t, for the life of me, find a store that had reasonable prices. Every store I went into had clothes I could have bought at Old Navy for a crazy $60 or more! I was very discouraged, until I found the wonders of VERA MODA. AWESOME clothes for AWESOME prices, even for USD conversion standards. See the store on the left of the picture above with the purple signs.
After my clothes shopping was done with, I refocused on finding souvenirs. Well, Kristiansand is not known for its touristic attractions, so I had to go into bookstores to find THE shelf that had the souvenirs. I did end up getting a few cool things, including an oversized pen that was SO much fun but I couldn’t think of anybody who would appreciate it as much as I did… so I got it for myself 🙂
Here’s a bit of Norway trivia for you: apparently there are folk stories that involve these freakin’ ugly dwarfs or elves or gnomes or something. They are the ugliest things you’ll ever see. How would you feel if someone brought you an ugly little gnome to put on your fridge from a wonderfully exotic place as Norway? They are just awful looking little dudes.
Norwegian Gnome
During my search for the perfect souvenirs, I walked around and found the center of town (see the church and fountain) and learned about the the historic Kristiansand fort (known as Fort Christiansholm – see picture). I also found out that some kind of volleyball championship was going on. I didn’t stick around to see it… but it was good to know it was going on.
Church and FountainFort ChristiansholmVolleyball Tournament
Now, this is the craziest part of my lone stroll in Kristiansand. As I was taking some cool pictures (of myself), I saw a couple of Norwegians bathing in the freezing canal water and some tourists taking pictures of them. I thought they were funny and wanted to take their picture, but they were out of the water by the time I got my camera ready, so I went back to taking pix of myself.
As I was doing that, the 2 Norwegian dudes tried to bomb one of my pictures by jumping in a funny way behind me. The picture didn’t capture it, so I called them over and asked them to do that again. This time, we counted 1, 2 and 3! And this is what I got:
Crazy Norwegians
They were good sports. I showed them the picture afterward and they were very proud of themselves for such a funny outcome. I told them I would call this picture “Crazy Norwegians.” Now, that’s what I call a great travel story 🙂
On my walk back to the hotel I saw an exhibit of sand castles (or figures). They were AMAZING and very very large! Check these out:
Pirate ShipAdam and EveRobot Man
I’ll close out the Norway trip with one last anecdote. I decided to have Mexican food for lunch. After all, Norwegian Mexican food HAD to be tried! So I found a little place called “Amigos” and ventured in. I had the chicken burrito. I was surprised that it came with a salad (you don’t see that very often). I was even more surprised when the check came. My burrito cost $37!!!!!!!!!!!!! And it wasn’t a fancy place, either!!!
I found out that taxes in Norway are CRAZY. That is the reason why they don’t tend to tip waiters or taxi drivers: they are already paying out the wazoo! Income tax is 50% and everything else gets also heavily taxed. It’s just crazy. No wonder I couldn’t find a store with reasonable prices. It almost makes me wonder if VERA MODA is making any money at all!
AMIGOS$40 Norwegian Mexican Burrito
I’ll leave you with one last thing: a high fashion ad I saw through a store window. I just thought it was funny 🙂
Last working day in Lindesnes. This afternoon we’ll all head out to Kristiansand, Norway, in preparation for everybody’s early morning flight out of Kristiansand Airport. I’ll be staying in town for an extra day to get some shopping done and fly out on Saturday.
We spent most of the day in meetings and presentations. It’s not all bad, though, the conference room where we are gathered is a cabin-looking building located by the canal. Look at the picture of the view from outside the conference room’s door!
View from our conference roomSerenity NOW!
The meetings were not terribly relevant to me personally, so I was falling sleep. It went by fast, but it certainly gave me a long time to observe. As I looked around the room to a group of people who have been working together for more than 10 years, I felt a sense of fear. Fear that I would never feel comfortable leading a team that big and tight knit. I guess I just feel like you can never really be friends with your subordinates, no matter how open and friendly you are (as I pride myself to be). If I had organized the meeting, I would have not had as much fun as I did being a part of it. I would have been too stressed out faced with the realization that I do not belong in that peer-to-peer relationship they all have. I would be the one they could do without. The butt of the jokes. The one that is not liked, but put up with. It supported my long-time made decision that I would not be happy in a leadership position. It’s just too lonely at the top.
After the meetings we got in a taxi and headed straight for Kristiansand. It was a fun ride there, listening to stories and jokes from my coworkers. We even got into a discussion on some cultures’ traditions of having multiple wives, and how it is or is not the same as a woman having multiple husbands. It went something like this:
A man – It’s ok for a man to have multiple wives, but a woman with multiple husbands? That’s wrong Me – Now, there’s a double standard Man – It’s not a double standard! Think about it. If you got pregnant, and it’s the other man’s baby, why would I pitch in? Me [for the sake of the argument] – Because you already agreed to a committed threesome relationship, and everything is everybody else’s Man – No, it’s messed up Another woman – I guess what I have a problem with is the fact that the woman has no choice in the matter in that marriage, and in such a culture her desires are not taken into account Man [sincerely] – What desires??? Me [taking off my shoe and threatening to beat this man over the head] – WHAT DESIRES???? WHAT DESIRES???? ARE YOU KIDDING ME???
Everybody was laughing, and we couldn’t believe our ears!!! It made for a very entertaining exchange.
The hotel is right downtown, so I was pleased that I wouldn’t have to take a taxi anywhere. I could just walk out and do my shopping tomorrow. I was so excited for the next day to come!
At dinner time we joked some more, but we were tired for the most part. We went to this restaurant, which ended up being the BEST restaurant I have EVER been to!!!
Enok Nilsen Restaurant
Not only was the food great and the staff friendly, but when the night got cold, they had BLANKETS laying around for guests! It was a good blanket too! I was so warm and cozy, I didn’t want to leave!!! Best restaurant EVER!
The chocolate fondant dessert was to die for. It was a mini molten cake with ice cream. DELICIOUS.
Chocolate fondant
Anyways, by the end of the night I was beat.
As I post this, it is midnight (GMT +1). I have to get up early to have breakfast with one of my coworkers before she leaves for home. I’m considering having breakfast and going back to bed… but maybe what I could do is get up at 7:25, and just brush my teeth and go downstairs. I can shower once she’s gone and then I’ll go out and explore.
I woke up to a massive headache, which had not let up since yesterday. I’m starting to think the fresh paint in the hotel room was the culprit. On top of it, my slightly leaking shower problem turned into a major flooding one. I had to shower in a different room. Not a great way to start the day, but they had a casual day of activities planned for the day, so something had to give.
We ended up at Vikingland, a fun little place where I got to dress as a Viking (willingly – see picture) and got to fight a real life Viking! I lost, of course. They also had archery and an obstacle course. I was particularly impressed at my wall climbing skills! At the place we had a great fish soup and birthday cake for one of our coworkers.
I am a viking!
Afterwards we went on a lovely boat ride to the Lindesnes Lighthouse, the southernmost point of all of Norway. Despite feeling a bit queasy at times, I loved being out in the sea and had a wonderful time getting to know my peers better. I even found out that the General Manager of the Lindesnes plant is a descendant of real life Vikings! Incredible.
Lindesnes Lighthouse
Then we went to a little restaurant walking distance from the hotel:
Immensity
The restaurant used to be a barn and it was turned into a Belgian restaurant. I had the steak, but some had the reindeer. I tried a little, and it wasn’t bad, but I just couldn’t get past the idea that I was eating Rudolf.
Reindeer on a plate
Had the Belgian Waffles for dessert, of course, even though they weren’t on the dessert menu. The waiter couldn’t believe his ears.
Belgian Waffles!
Ended the night with a lovely walk under the stars across a rural/residential area of Lindesnes. I wish my husband had been there with me. It was quite romantic.
First day at work, and I already got chewed out. Turns out that people expect a lot more from my job than they actually get. I sent an email to my boss to tell her about the gap between expectations and reality, and my biggest fear is that she will come back saying that I am wrong and their expectations are actually true. Won’t that be a nice shot at my credibility?
We spent the day in meetings, and by the end I had a splitting headache. We did get to take a plant tour (see the picture – the coat says “Visitor” in Norwegian). I wish I could say it was fun, but I was so disappointed about the turn of events in the morning that I was just internally tantruming. I was tired, hungry, and extremely whiny. I wanted to just quit all this nonsense and skip right to shopping and sightseeing!
Visitor
We were supposed to have an outdoorsy team building event tomorrow, but a storm is fast approaching and now we have no idea what they’re gonna have us do. Maybe stay in and play Monopoly 😉 I’d be happy enough to stay in my room watching Frasier episodes 🙂
Oh yeah, and remember how I said that my hotel is still under construction? See the picture of it below. I really wasn’t kidding!
Scandic Hotel, Lindesnes
For dinner, we ended up at a restaurant called Provianten in the town of Mandal, about 30min away from Lindesnes. It was a great place by the lake. Mmm I keep calling it a lake, but really it’s a massive canal that ends in the North Sea. Anyways, Norway is a great place for fish, even if Norwegians joke that pizza is their national dish 😉 Apparently they are serious about pizza around here.
I had the mussels appetizer and the spare ribs special. It was delicious, and I had a great time trading marriage stories with a few of my coworkers.
I did have a culture shock moment, though. I felt like an idiot, but I’ll leave the judgment up to you. While we were picking out items from the menu, I asked my coworkers whether they would join me in sharing the mussels appetizer. The Americans passed, they don’t like mussels, but the British and Norwegian ones were tentative. I thought it was the usual reaction of “I’ll wait to see if someone else would like to jump in, and if nobody does, I’ll speak up” – but my interpretation was completely off.
They asked me if I didn’t feel like I could handle a whole dish by myself. I said it wasn’t a matter of being able to handle it, I am just not used to having an appetizer all on my own. They said that, in the UK and Norway, for the most part, appetizers are individual dishes; unless it was Chinese food. And even then, they are absolutely disgusted by the possibility of double dipping.
Even after they told me that, I still asked if anyone would share with me. I was SO uncomfortable not sharing appetizers! In the end, I let it go on the account that my British counterpart, who had originally caved under my insistence, actually wanted to get an app of her own.
The mussels plate was definitely individual sized. Not at all like the portions you would get at Atlantic Fish & Co in Boston, which are meant for sharing.
I am in Lindesnes, Norway. As I type this up on my phone, I’m sitting on a rocky deck watching the sun go down over a gorgeous lake right outside my hotel. I sit here all alone because I prefer it over being in there doing nothing. The rocks looked so inviting from my window that I had to seize the moment and take them up on it.
Sitting by the lake
I came here to think and write about nothing in particular.
The wind is blowing my way and each gust is colder than the one before. Good thing I brought a thick windbreaker on the trip, even when the weather forecast called for temperatures in the 60s and rain. Fortunately there has been none of the latter.
A seagull just screamed behind me. Is that what seagulls do? They are no chirpers or tweeters for sure.
The air just feels pure. It smells like ocean.
it smells like ocean
I can see shadows moving in the lobby of the hotel across the lake. It could be the others gathering around for dinner. I guess I should go join them. I wouldn’t want to be left out.
To summarize my experience so far: I feel good about my jet lag: I’ve adjusted stupendously. The coworkers I have interacted with so far hate the fact that they have been dragged away from their busy lives to come to a senseless meeting in the middle of nowhere, and they can’t wait to be on the first flight out as soon as the meetings are over. Their Debbie Downer attitude bugs me to no end, as I have gone out of my way to stay an additional day and mingle with the rural Norwegian folk. The hotel WILL be a great place once it officially opens: it’s still under construction! There are no hangers, irons, blow dryers, internet or more than 1 TV channels. I feel like I am in an oversized concrete cabin in the countryside of paradise. No country music, though 😉
I just spent a great week in Wisconsin getting to know my work team. I loved staying at the Hampton Inn — I had the best night sleep EVER. All I wanted to do was sleep. On a couple of nights, I went to bed at 8pm. It was glorious. I should get light-proof shades for my room at home. I’d sleep all day and all night. Nice.
Here are a couple pix from the trip. Enjoy!
ina Miller Park – Brewers versus Pirates. Pirates won.
Bradford Beach – Lake MichiganMilwaukee Art MuseumThe best nachos I have ever had in my whole life. Get them at Trocadero in Milwaukee (ztrocadero.com)
Blackberry Curve
One of the things that I really did not expect to find out there was the astounding penetration of Blackberries. You see, for some reason “texting” is not as widely used as the Blackberry Messenger (through users’ PIN codes) is. In consequence: if you don’t have a Blackberry, you are out of the loop.
My cousins basically sold me on the idea of getting one… literally. If I didn’t know better, I would have thought they were selling the devices themselves! They even let me play with theirs while I was there to get used to the feel for it, and to really experience this PIN phenomenon.
The difference between using PINs and texting is that (1) you pay for texting, while PINing is free, (2) you can have chats with whole groups of people, which you can’t do with texting, and (3) you can PIN to international Blackberry users (text, pictures, movies) for free, while nobody can figure out how to text internationally.
All of these reasons were enough for me. My sister Tina Fey and my father have Blackberries, and they chat with my cousins and aunts and uncles every single day. I want to be in the loop! Now my husband Brian can’t wait for me to get it so I can be in touch with my family. He doesn’t even want to wait for me to get my new-every-two with Verizon (May 2011): he’s trying to come up with the money to get me one right now!
Caracas Airport on Sunday, February 14th, Valentine’s Day. We left my grandmother’s apartment at 5:30am and made it to the airport at 6am o’clock. Not too shabby. Didn’t run into any traffic, but had to be super careful on the highway: due to the rationing of electricity, the lights on the highway get shut off at night (when are they on, then?). Like my mother says: if you can drive in Caracas, you can drive anywhere!
My flight was scheduled to depart at 11:10am, while Brian’s was at 8:52am. I promised I’d be with him all the way until he boarded.
First we dropped Brian off at the Delta counter. They were using the Air France counters, as well as their own, to check in passengers. It reminded me of that Boy Meets World episode where Shawn Hunter wanted to run away to Europe, so he naturally headed for the bus station (lol), and bought a ticket to Paris, TX. “Oh, I thought TX meant Tax!” 😀 Good memories.
The Delta line moved quickly. Then I went to the American Airlines counter. The line was about twice as long, and it took me all of 50 minutes to get through the line. Can you believe this? They only had 2 out of 5 booths open checking passports and ID. After 40 minutes, Brian had to go to make his flight. I was able to catch up with him at his gate, though. I guess that’s it for our Valentine’s Day together 🙁
I don’t really have a lot of beef with the airport itself. It has tons of shopping in the (only) terminal, and a great food court, plus Duty Free shops. It even has a “Venezuelan Chocolates” store where you can buy last-minute delights. Each gate has a flat screen TV where they advertise Venezuela tourism, play funny videos and play music videos… no sound, though. I would rather they played CNN myself, but I guess if “playing the news” translates into showing the government channel’s propaganda, then I’ll stick with the soundless music videos, thank you very much.
The beef I do have here is the completely unnecessary, redundant and pain in the ass that is going through all the checkpoints from the moment you get to the airport until you get on the plane. Allow me to describe:
6:10am: Got in line at American Airlines counter 6:55am: AA worker checked my passport and ID before leaving me at the computerless booth to go to the actual counter to confirm my reservation (since I had an eTicket). She came back and gave me a printed itinerary. 7:05am: I approached the counter. No bags to check (Brian will arrive in Boston earlier, so he checked it instead). SO glad I wasn’t the one to do it: behind the AA worker was a pile of bags for the next flight out. 50 bags, all checked, but apparently not going anywhere any time soon. Lastly, I paid the difference in exit taxes (taxes went up since I bought the ticket a month ago), and got my boarding passes. Stapled to one of them was a bar code that proved I had paid the taxes. 7:10am: Stood aside with my mother to fill out the customs form. Glad a man passed by offering us a pen. Called my aunt to say goodbye. Said my goodbyes to my mother and grandmother. 7:20am: First checkpoint: a turnstile activated by scanning the bar code from the tax receipt. 7:24am: Second checkpoint: National-Guard operated X-ray for luggage. They had me open my bag to explain the heavy metal base of my blowdryer stand. Yes, I travel with it: it packs nicely and I can’t seem to be able to live without it. Don’t judge! They let it through. 7:30am: Third checkpoint: airport operated X-ray for luggage. This post is located no more than 15 ft from the secoind checkpoint. One would think they’d spot the redundancy, right? They have me open my bag again to explain the base of the blowdryer stand. This guy was more rigid. “Why didn’t you check it?” “Because I have lost things I’ve checked before, and the stand doesn’t work without the base.” He said never to carry it on again, since it’s a potentially harmful object, and let me through. 7:35am: Fourth checkpoint: Customs. Hand over the exit form and show passport to get it stamped out. Sit and wait at the gate (and walk from one end of the terminal to the other to see how long it takes). 10:35am: Fifth checkpoint: at the gate, run my carry-on luggage through a THIRD X-ray check. They did not ask me to open it this time. Go through a personal metal detector AND get a full pat-down. 10:45am: Sitting on the plane!
I swear, it’s almost as if they didn’t want you to leave the country, isn’t it?
The flight crew had to go through the metal detector and X-rays at the gate as well, and you could tell they were completely annoyed. I overheard one tell another, about the checkpoint, “I thought you were kidding!” — I hear you, blondie, we all wished they were.
ina
PS: In case you were wondering, it took 10 minutes to run the lenght of the entire international terminal. Not much of a workout, but it’s good to know 🙂
If I didn’t scare you off with my Crime in Venezuela post, and you do get the opportunity to visit Caracas, you should add El Hatillo to your list of places to visit (as well as La Colonia Tovar, and any beach town).
El Hatillo is a village that prides itself in preserving a typical colonial façade with a colorful twist. The houses are all painted different colors, and you feel like you just landed in Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory. Just one look around and you’ll feel delighted by the restaurant options: fondue at La Ballesta, churros at Don Churro, original milkshakes at Baty’s (based on national and international snacks and candy bars!), and even Chinese food! Whatever you decide todo, make sure to have a chicha in the little stand on the corner (yummy sweet milk-like mixture with ice and cinnamon on top).
What’s nice about this town is that, even though it’s a tourist-oriented place, it is also in a real area of town inside a heavily populated residential area. Caraqueños go there to hang out and have churros all the time, so you are essentially crashing the residents’ hang-out spot. In fact, I used to live nearby, and it’s my favorite place in the city.
Besides the little shops in the town, and the iconic and humongous Hannsi store (THE Venezuelan souvenir mecca), you’ll also find a full blown mall just down the street called Paseo El Hatillo. It has many national and international brands, as well as places to grab a snack, and a food court if you’re in a rush.
El Hatillo
I have some video of our visit — hope to put it together and post soon. Stay tuned!
I’d like to remind you that you can click on any picture to enlarge it!
Last Monday my mother took me downtown to run some errands. I firmly believe she was intentionally trying to deceive me! She said she had to go run one errand, and it turned into a BILLION of them! We got home close to 3pm. My poor husband was at home starving to death wondering where the heck we were!
The first problem was that I was in PAIN. The night before I had hit my foot against the love seat SO hard I ended up limping. Sorry for the lack of pedicure, but I don’t think you’d understand the pain I was in until you see this in a more graphic way:
Ow Ow Ow
So, as you can see, a billion errands was not in my plans!
Anyways, we drove out to Altamira, where my mother used to work, and parked in her usual parking garage. She gave up her keys, and admitted being unsure about parking there at first. The main reason was that it’s not really a full valet service: the customers pick out their keys from the keys box on their own, and go searching for their car when they are ready to leave. She asked her then-boss whether it was safe (anybody could come in and pick out any keys and drive off). Her boss responded “yes, that could happen… but mostly people just take their own cars.” Oh well, I guess it’s all a game of convenience versus security trade-offs.
Plaza Altamira
From Altamira we took the subway to Bellas Artes.
Metro Map (Subway)
Our first stop was Parque Central (translation: “Central Park”). It’s not really a park, it’s just what we call Caracas’s version of the Twin Towers of the World Trade Center in New York City. They stand tall in the center of Caracas, and unfortunately I didn’t get a picture of it (only video — which will come later), so I took this picture off the internet:
On our way into the building, my mother pointed out an organic garden that President Chávez had had put in so that foreigners staying in nearby hotels would think that we plant vegetables everywhere in the city, regardless of urbanism in the area. Pff. It thought it was funny, and took a picture of it:
Vegetable garden in the middle of the city
We went to the office on the first floor where my mother was to run her errand. The little office had quite the line. It seems like you can’t get anything done online, or over the phone, or even in advance. Public services are the most annoying thing about living here. My mother, who now lives in the US, has been here for almost 3 weeks, and every day she has had to stand in line to get something done. This is what it looked like:
Public office – customer service
Oh, and yes, you are looking at it right: this is not the inside of an office, this is the hallway in the building.
While I waited around (yes, like those people on the left) for my mother to go through the requirement checking, waiting, entering and exiting the mysterious door, I took a couple of pictures of my surroundings. I thought you would appreciate a look for what it looked like outside the building from the inside.
View from Parque Central, first floor
Let me know if that gif animation is too fast for you. I could post the pictures separately.
Anyways, afterwards we took the subway to the Teatros station for yet another government paperwork errand.
The Metro (Subway)
I do have to say that the subway was not bad. My mother says that when she was here in October, the subway had no air conditioning, and it took 15 min to depart each station. It was not worth it to hop on it. It seems to be functioning fine now.
My mother had to go check if a letter was ready for her to pick up. We got there at 11:03am. They said they were not servicing that type of requests for the day (as of 11am), and we should come back tomorrow at 8:30am. My mother really tried to get them to make an exception (it was 11:03am!!!) but they wouldn’t budge. She’d have to come back.
This is where my mother had to go pick up her papers. As you can see for the line forming outside, Venezuelan agencies do not seem to be big fans of indoor offices…
Office for Attention to Pension Recipients
We did get some good shots of Plaza Caracas. The bust you see is Simon Bolívar, liberator of 5 Latin American countries from the control of Spain (Venezuela, Bolivia, Equator, Panama and Colombia), and the country’s pride and joy. Our currency is even named after him (The Bolívar, code VEB).
Plaza CaracasPlaza CaracasPlaza Caracas
Right there, just beyond the bust, you can see the headquarters of the Consejo Nacional Electoral (CNE – National Electoral Council). That’s the institution that organizes elections, counts and verifies all votes.
CNE
We went back on the subway, this time headed for Parque Carabobo station.
Men playing chess in front of Parque Carabobo subway station.
As soon as we got out of the station, we passed something like 5 people who were saying “selling/buying gold, dollars, euros” repeatedly.
After running my mother’s errand, she asked me if I wanted to see Plaza Bolívar and Congress. I said sure — would be nice to get some pix to bring to my loyal readers 😉 (see? I’m thinking of YOU ;)). So we went.
I tried my hardest to be as inconspicuous as possible. I didn’t want to draw much attention to myself, so I kept my videos and picture-taking to the minimum. I thought you would appreciate this one, though. It’s a Wendy’s that was put into a colonial-style building. I thought it was a funny mix of styles:
Wendy’s in Colonial Times
Here are some shots we took of the area. I did take a 360-degree video of Plaza Bolívar. Stay tuned for that. Sorry I can’t name all the buildings below. My mother probably could.
Palacio de las Academias (Palace of the Academies)Palacio de las Academias (Palace of the Academies)Let me get back to you on this one…Congress
Now, here’s the interesting bit about this trip to Plaza Bolívar: the day before, President Chávez had expropriated all the buildings surrounding the plaza. He did it in the most unbelievable way: he stood outside during his radio/TV address and started pointing at buildings asking “what’s in that building?” and someone would answer “that’s some businesses,” and the President would say “Expropriate that. What is in that other building?” “it’s a jewelry store” “Expropriate that one too. What’s over there?” and so on. You can read the full story here, and see the video of this here. The order was made effective immediately, and the documents were drafted 2 hours later.
Two things are of note. Number one, there is a constitutional process through which the government could expropriate private property. The conditions are very explicit: there must be a trial where the government must demonstrate the need for the land for public service, and they must reach a settlement agreement with the owner. Once the owner has been paid, the government may take over the property. President Chávez has completely ignored the law and simply decided to take possession of property that does not belong to him without due process.
Number two, as it turns out, some of those buildings are currently owned by state universities. This means that the buildings are ALREADY owned by the State, and it is legally and technically impossible for the government to try to expropriate itself. However, it appears as though Chávez is more interested in evicting businesses off the premises than he is in any kind of premeditated research and analysis of his actions, let alone measurement of consequences.
My mother and I had totally forgotten that this had happened just the day before, and we found ourselves in the most undesirable part of town on a very important day. People had started to gather around Building La Francia, one of the expropriated buildings, out of curiosity, out of support or out of protest. La Francia is a LANDMARK of Caracas. It holds the best jewelry stores all in one building. My parents always go us our milestone items from there (baby bracelet, baptism chain and cross, and our sweet fifteen ring). It really hurts to see the President leave a trail of devastation of our democracy in his path.
There was a government-supported post right outside the building, where there seemed to be a heated argument going on. My mother, who loves to hear what people on the street are saying, walked TOWARDS the noise to eavesdrop. This is what we heard someone telling other people (who appeared to be tourists): “You see, this building used to be owned by the State, then the rich people came and took it over!” We took our pictures and video and got the hell out of there!
Edificio La Francia (France Building)
We made it home and lived to tell that we were there the day after the historic and nonsensical expropriations happened. Just don’t tell my father… he’d kill us both! 🙂
Again, stay tuned for videos. I’ll be posting them after I have a chance to work on them next week when I get back home. Have a good weekend everyone!
ina
PS: Oh, and my little toe held up just fine even after all that walking. I ended up limping at the end of the day, but it’s feeling much better today 🙂 Thanks for your concern 🙂
I’m going to level with you: living in Caracas is a huge safety risk. There is really no sugarcoating it. I knew this before I got here, but I can honestly say I have never been so frightened of going outside, or even being in a car outside, in my life — and I grew up here.
The first thing that hit me was Monday’s weekend violent deaths report. This is not a new thing, I remember this report coming out in the paper and being covered on the news every week, what was incredible about it was the actual statistics and the killings that were singled out. Over the weekend, 44 deaths due to gunshot wounds occurred in Caracas alone. In 2009, 48 people on average died of gunshot wound EVERY DAY in the country.
Two people were killed while watching the circus. Yes, you heard that right. They were sitting watching a show, and they were shot to death. One was an 18 year old sitting between her mother and her sister. Her mother reported that the girl simply collapsed on the floor. They thought she had fainted. Then they saw blood, and they thought she had simply hit her head when she fell. They took her outside to recover, and realized she had received a gunshot to the head.
Another news story reported the most terrifying thing I have ever heard: three armed men boarded a full bus at 6pm while it was stopped in traffic. They held the driver at gunpoint and instructed everyone to get off the bus, except for 3 girls, whom they proceeded to rape right there. This happened on Monday.
My cousin, whom we’ll call Lara Croft (because she’s gorgeous and a total badass), filled me in on the day-to-day fears. She said she couldn’t even go out dancing with her friends in her usual places: shootings had occurred in every single one of them. The only safe thing to do nowadays was to stay home and hang out with friends over a pizza.
She was also telling me how awful traffic was in the mornings (not new), and how she couldn’t even use her blackberry (to email, text, ping, or talk on the phone) because any action that may give outsiders the indication that she has a phone may attract bikers who rob cars in traffic. She mimicked a biker simply knocking on the car window, and just asking people to hand over the phones, and you HAVE to do it.
Lara’s friend’s ex-boyfriend was robbed while he was in his car. He gave them everything: the phone, he iPod, and got out of the car to hand over his truck, all to save his life. The robbers’ response was “oh, you must be a daddy’s boy and money just doesn’t hurt, huh?” right before shooting him dead.
Driving on the highway is now a billion times more dangerous with the motorcycles being allowed on the road. It used to be that motorcycles were outlawed from riding on the highway, but President Chávez got rid of that by stating that the roads belonged to all who wanted to use them. Consequence: more crime.
In the past couple of days, several motorcyclists blocked off the highway and proceeded to rob 15 cars before riding off. This same traffic jam created another opportunity farther down the highway for other motorcyclists to seize the day and rob more cars.
This is probably an obvious one, but just thought I’d let you know that stopping at stop signs or red lights at night is a total risk to your safety, so you should not stop. Just proceed with caution.
One of my friends, whom we’ll call Tori Amos (because she’s an awesome musician and she loves Tori Amos), has family in the countryside of Venezuela. She emailed me to let me know that her uncle had been kidnapped over the weekend, had a heart attack shortly after, and was left on the side of the road. I was so sorry to hear about her uncle, and so appreciative of her concern.
My grandmother has become quite depressed at the crime levels. They have never been this ludicrous.
I usually tell my friends that if they ever wanted to visit Venezuela, the best time is RIGHT NOW, because things are just getting worse down here. Traveling to touristy areas with tourist groups or agencies should be fine — they know where to go and where not to go. Trips to Canaima, La Gran Sabana, and other places in the Amazon rainforest are amazing. My cousins go there for vacation and I’m dying to go with them. Those are safe as long as you go with people who know.
The beaches in Venezuela are among the most beautiful in the world. The best place to appreciate them is in Margarita Island. Make sure to sign up with a reputable resort or travel agency and take the tours around the different areas. Tons of shopping and pristine beaches.
As for trips to the Capital City, Caracas, go with a native, or don’t at all. Even booking a hotel might be tricky: it’s not like New York City where you just find the most stars and just walk around. This place is insanely dangerous, and you should get help from someone who knows.
While I ran my errands to get my Venezuelan ID, and to accompany my mother to get government papers done, guess where my husband Brian was: safe in my grandmother’s apartment. I would never risk his life just so he could see downtown Caracas. There is WAY too much animosity towards foreigners, and the President has made sure to create as much polarization as possible. It is just simply NOT a good idea for foreigners to venture out to the city and rogue it out as if they were in Vancouver, Canada.
This is very scary and again, there is just no sugarcoating it. I wish I could tell you that I might be blowing it out of proportion and it’s really not that bad, but I’m afraid that saying this might mislead you to think that I might be exaggerating. I am not.
Having said all that, Brian and I have had a wonderful time with my family, and I have been recording a lot of video so I can show you a little bit of what Caracas is all about. Stay tuned for those!
Here’s a little taste. Sunday was a beautiful day in the city, and we caught a majestic clear view of Mount El Avila. It was absolutely breathtaking. I hope you enjoy it as much as we did.
Have you ever complained about the slowness and incompetence of the Department of Motor Vehicles? Well, after I tell you the hurdles I had to get over in order to renew my Venezuelan ID, you’re going to start feeling much more appreciation for your local DMV.
First off, there is a difference between an ID and a driver’s license in Venezuela. Your driver’s license looks sort of like a credit card: it has your name and license number; while your ID is the equivalent of your Social Security Card, but the ID card has your #, your full name, your picture, thumb print and your signature.
This ID, called “cédula,” has to be renewed every 10 years. Since I no longer live in Venezuela, I really don’t need to worry about renewals (not even to vote, since an expired ID will do just fine). The reason I’m here is that I got married and my name changed. I got a greencard with my new name, and all of my documents have now been changed, with the exception of my passport. The only way to change my name on my passport is to have a cédula that reflects the new name. Unfortunately, I cannot get cédula updates at the consulate within the US, so I came down and ran this errand. Hopefully this will be the last government procedure I will ever have to endure in my motherland. Any other passport changes can be made through the Consulate in Boston.
We woke up at 5am, and made it to the East Park (Parque del Este) by 6am. The park is a city landmark, and quite large in area. I remember when my grandparents used to bring us here when we were little to watch the animal cages and play some beach-ball soccer 🙂 Fun times. They even had a replica of Christopher Colombus’s ship La Santa María (which they took down when President Chávez denounced the violent Spanish conquest of Latin America – result: no more Columbus Day celebration for us). But I digress. Anyways, turns out that there are not enough offices where people can comfortably perform any type of ID updates, so there are mobile “operative blitzes” in different parts of Caracas. We came to the one in East Park.
We got here at 6am, and were the 5th in line. Those who were ahead of us got here at 5:30am. We stood and waited for a while. At 6:45am, the worker in the food stand, adjacent to the empty space where the cédula workers would be setting up shop, announced that he heard the blitz had been canceled for today, and he would confirm later. He suggested that the closest operative that might still be on was in Los Ruices (two subway stations away).
My mother recalled that last time she went there the machine had been taken away to a different location, so the Los Ruices blitz might not be a sure thing either. We decided to divide and conquer: she went on her own to stand in line in Los Ruices until we heard wether it was happening here for sure.
I kept reading my book (Darkly Dreaming Dexter – I was half way through it when I put it down last night), and just waited. At around 8am, the food stand worker let us know that it was still on. I called my mother with the news, but we decided to stay in place until it was a sure thing. I saw them set up the chairs and block off the area, and instructed my mother to head back. They finished setting up at around 9:30ish and started calling children and senior citizens up first.
While I waited, my mother got me breakfast from the food stand. I went for NATURAL FRESH-SQUEEZED orange juice, and a tequeñón (bread rolled up with cheese inside). I LOVE my orange juice here.
Tequeñón and fresh-squeezed orange juice
At around 10:45 or so, I was next in line to provide my credentials and for them to make sure I got the requirements needed for what I needed done. They pretty much refused to change my name to First and New-Last. It had to be First Old-Last “de” New-last. That’s the standard naming convention in most of Latin America. For example, if Jane Smith marries John Doe, her new name would be Jane Smith de Doe. I asked for just plain Jane Doe, but they would have none of it. Now my greencard (“Jane Doe”) will not match my new passport (“Jane Smith de Doe”), great. I just hope I don’t get beef from airlines à la Joan Rivers.
At 11:38am I was still standing in line to get my picture taken. It finally happened at 12 o’clock. We wiped the sweat off our brows at that point: we heard they usually took a break for lunch at noon.
By that time I had finished reading my book. My mother had not only come back from Los Ruices, she had also gone back home to pick up a slip she needed to get some papers at another government office. She came back, and left again to get her errand done. Then came back and sat to listen to the radio. I also finished my book – hate to kill the suspense, but LaGuerta dies at the end of the first Dexter book! That was unexpected.
While I waited in the photo line, people started to get out of control. Masses of people crossed the yellow tape and started cutting in in front of others. People started to yell at the organizers telling them what a mess this whole thing was, and the organizers decided to call the National Guard to come play line referee. Yup, they just had nothing better to do. The lady in front of me in line (who I’m convinced had cut in front of me at some point) was texting to somebody “I’m not out yet. This is a mess,” and I couldn’t agree more.
I waited for my name to be called up for the next stage: signing the document to verify my identity. I saw people who had been behind me get called. I even talked to a National Guard to please let me approach the table to ask about my stuff. At 12:20 they finally found my paperwork, and I waited for my name to be called again to receive my laminated ID card.
I was out by 12:35pm. FINALLY!
I recorded some video so you can see where the “operative” took place at the park, and so you see what a mess it was! Can you tell how many lines there are? You won’t. We couldn’t even figure that out ourselves. What you CAN see is the mile long line of people who got there late. They’ll never make it.
Something funny did happen. Every time I told an organizer I was there to change my marital status to “married,” they all asked “What the hell for?” After 6 and half hours of this ordeal, I was asking myself the same thing…
All I can say is: the DMV rocks.
ina
PS: Come back for pictures and video later — I’ll have to edit the videos when I get home next week. I took a whole 360 of the situation.
Last Saturday my husband and I braved the 20-degree weather of Boston at 5am to head to Logan Airport for our 18-hour trip to my home country, Venezuela (South America). See map:
Venezuela in South America
I got a free ticket by using my American Airlines miles, but Brian’s ticket would have cost nearly $1400 if he had traveled with me, so he went on Delta instead, flying via Atlanta, to Caracas. At 5am, at the airport, we said our goodbyes and embarked on the trip separately.
If you got good flights, you would be able to make it to Venezuela in 6 or 7 short hours, and even make it there by 2pm (I have done it before), but only American Airlines schedules can make this happen, and my award ticket did not have that itinerary as an option, so Brian and I both had a 3-5 hour layover between flights, and that’s what made it so long a trip.
As soon as I landed, at 12 noon, I found my usual travel restaurant: Chili’s. It was right outside my arriving gate! I swear, every time I walk into an airport my mouth starts salivating like Pavlov’s dog, already preparing for a Chili’s feast.
Chili's: Nectar of the traveling gods (and goddesses)
I had the chicken fajitas, and took half of it to-go. I figured I’d get hungry later, with such a long layover and all.
12:45pm. My flight to Caracas was scheduled to depart at 3:30pm. What to do with my time for 3 whole hours? Sit at the gate reading a book until it was time to sit on a plane for 5 more hours… reading a book? It was just not an option. I was already missing going to the gym, I couldn’t in full consciousness decide to sit on my bum for 8 hours straight.
On my way to my gate, I noticed that the airport had a peculiar triple-ring (closed loop) shape. I wondered how long it would take to walk the entire perimeter of the airport on foot (meaning no escalators or moving sidewalks). And so, my adventure began.
The starting point was gate D27. I’ll cut to the chase and tell you that Terminal D was my favorite. Close to my gate I started noticing the interesting artwork. This castle reminded me of the Wizard of Oz for some reason:
Castle in Terminal D
Then, just around the corner, I saw this blue “crystaly” structure. Then I REALLY started to see the reference to Oz (remember the green crystals of Emerald City?).
Musical Crystals on Terminal D
The contraption was actually a sort of human harmonica. If you walked between the layers of blue walls, you could hear sounds made by your own walking. A kid-crowd pleaser.
I don’t know how many Auntie Anne’s Pretzel stands I passed along the way, but every time I saw them I’d droooool. I LOVE their cinnamon sugar pretzels, but I didn’t have any. I had a banana and Special K crackers in my bag (I was so good, dietwise). About 2 terminals into my walk, I started taking pictures of the stands, in case you didn’t believe me when I told you about the number of these I saw along the way. I did buy a water in one of them, just to support their wonderful cinnamon-sugary cause.
Auntie Anne’s in every corner. I ♥ Texas!!
I was really enjoying my walk. Did I mention I was hauling my carry-on luggage on one hand, and carrying my left-over fajitas on the other? Remember the “no escalators” rule?
Deep breath in, and out. I took each step in a deliberate and constant rhythm. My calves were BURNING. When I got to the top, an airport worker pointed out to me that that was 84 steps. Good to know!
I enjoyed finding cool things to take pictures of. Here are some of them:
The DFW Comfort Lounge in Terminal B
Some things in life are still free!
Way to draw them in early
Just a nice shot outside the terminal
Amazing floor art. I love Terminal D!
What a smarter person would have done during a 3hr layover
When did iPods became an impulse buy?
A Dallas Chili magnet. Perfect souvenir… but at $3.99, I said No Thanks.
THE FINISH LINE
I know, The Finish Line was a bit anti-climatic, but it was a great walk and I would recommend it to anyone with a layover in a large airport! Total time: 1 hour, 30 minutes.
By the time I got back to my gate, my flight had been delayed and the gate had been changed to D16. I didn’t end up taking off until 4:30pm, which made my landing time 11pm (an hour later than scheduled). I had Chili’s fajitas left-overs in lieu of the who-knows-what’s-in-that-chicken-dinner plane food, and I think I would do it again! Quite satisfying to have had a choice in my meal.
I compared notes with Brian after our trips. His Delta flight was equipped with individual TV monitors for him to pick any movie he wanted to see, while my flight had those CRT monitors hanging from the ceiling every 9 rows or so. Made me feel like I was still living in the 1990s.
Also, his flight time was shorter over all. His flight back will get him to Boston by 5pm, while I will be arriving at 10pm. We’ll be spending Valentine’s Day apart 🙁 Boo.
So, in conclusion, I love American Airlines because of the miles, but there are better and cheaper ways to fly out there. I recently signed up to get miles every time I use my (regular, non-AA) credit card in any of the featured restaurants, and I’ve earned about 400 miles in the past month just by having lunch in places that are convenient to me. THAT is a nifty feature that anybody who uses a credit card (ANY card) can take advantage of. If getting free flights is more important to you than having a good flying experience, then American Airlines is the airline for you 🙂
Stay tuned for more pictures and videos of my trip. We’ve only just begun!